Thursday, May 3, 2007

Maintaining Your Bicycle Parts - Do It Right And Enjoy A Safe Ride

The best way to maintaining your bicycle parts is to carry out normal defensive and precautionary preservation. Much of this up keep can be accomplished by you while a little work may necessitate the skills of a qualified cycle repair person. The bicycle parts that necessitate habitual examination, oiling and greasing are the tires, brakes, wheels, handlebar and chain.

The tires take the greatest weight and force, and have to be inflated as per the manufacturer’s terms. Besides air pressure, tires need to be watched for any obvious ripping or wear and tear. The wheels too need usual fine-tuning and correction, and should be checked for dents and twists that may occur by way of impact with firm objects or when the bicycle falls. The optimum method to inspect a wheel is to rotate it fast and look at it for unusual movement. The wheel should rotate without movement from side to side. If it does, make sure to adjust it. The spokes also must be firm and fixed tightly to the rims. The spokes convey weight and, when damaged, must be replaced right away.

Next to the handlebars and brakes, the tires are the most critical for safety and a good ride.

The handlebar is similar to the steering wheel of an automobile, and a critical element in directing the bicycle. It should to be aligned to have the best fit for comfort and safety. The first modification is the elevation. It should not be too high or too low, but should be positioned so that you can hold onto it at ease. The handlebar must be correctly aligned with the front wheel, to get the best results when the bike swerves or to make even changes in direction. In the same way, it is essential that the front fork is in proper position and in working order. It stabilizes the handlebar and should be fixed firmly to the handlebar post. The bike pedals should be observed to be sure that they are securely in place.

The brakes are vital for a cyclist’s safety and must be looked at continually for best operation. To inspect the brakes, squeeze the brake levers and move the bike forward. When the brakes are adjusted properly, the brake gripper pad will be maintained squarely on the rim surface without coming into contact with the tire and the wheels will not move forward. If the brake levers, come into contact with touch the handlebar when applied, it indicates that the brake cables are too loose. Adjust them or change them if they are worn out.

The chain needs proper lubrication for smooth and proper movement. The chain should also be cleaned of debris frequently using a good de-greaser to get rid of the grime that accumulates on the lubricant. Remember to apply new lubricant as soon as the old grease has been removed. This will help stop the chain from jumping the teeth or getting stuck and will keep it from rusting.

The seat adjustment is a critical part of comfort and safety too. It should always be tight and the height of the seat should allow for full extension of your legs when the pedal is in the lowest part of it’s circular motion. This keeps the legs from being bent all the time.

The height of the bicycle should be tested for each individual rider. The height is tested by straddling the bike with both feet on the ground and lifting the front tire off the ground. You should be able to raise the bike about an inch before the bikes bar is restrained by your crotch area.

You don’t need any hi-tech tools to keep your cycle in prime riding condition. All that you need is the time and the desire to keep it fit.

For more information on maintaining your bicycle parts and mountain bikes try visiting shoppingforbikes.com, a popular biking website that offers tips, advice and resources to include information on BMX bikes, folding bikes, pocket bikes and dirt bikes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Tim_Gorman

How to Find a Route to Work by Bicycle

Cyclists vary in their ability to handle traffic. At one end of the spectrum are those who pull off of the pavement at the approach of a slowly moving car on a quiet street, and at the other end are those who ride confidently among dense, fast traffic. Most of us fall between these extremes, making our own individual compromises between comfort and convenience.

"You Can't Get There from Here"

Many long years ago, I was told a wearisome, worn-out joke from an earlier era in which someone was being given extended road directions which kept failing due to bridges down and roads washed out, and the punch line was "You can't get there from here." It has been a very long time since there have been any roads in the USA unable to handle automobile traffic, but unfortunately, today's cyclists still face the dilemma of finding a suitable route among roads with narrow lanes, high speeds, and heavy traffic. In addition, cyclists are likely to encounter non-functioning traffic lights, hazardous road surfaces, and choke points such as narrow bridges, underpasses, and tunnels, which are likely to turn an otherwise good route into a dangerous situation. Even on a quiet back street, the cyclist is likely to be attacked by an unfenced dog or to face a challenging hill climb.

A Different Mental Map

The cycling newcomer to the game of finding a way around town is likely to face the double problem of minimal traffic skills and minimal knowledge of suitable streets, the second caused having always looked at the world from the seat of an automobile. The cycling oldtimer, on the other hand, has absolutely no trouble getting around town but is puzzled from time to time at learning of new stores or businesses built right on the busiest streets, and wonders why anyone would build a new store on a street which no one uses ("No one goes there any more; it's too crowded"). In fact, a map of the same town produced by a newbie and a veteran would look entirely different: the newbie has very limited knowledge of the back streets, and the veteran has only a cursory knowledge of the main ones.

The Most Suitable Roads

It might be assumed from what has been said that the cyclist is stuck with the inferior routes, but this is very far from the case. I have found myself enjoying the ride to work in the same town where the drive to work is an exasperating experience. A more carefully considered evaluation is that some roads are more suitable to bicycle use while others are more suited to automobile use, and the wise cyclist uses the roads best suited to the bicycle. The best automobile routes will be plainly marked on road maps and on signs; the best bicycling routes will usually only be discovered after some exploration on the part of the cyclist. Let's look at the different characteristics of the two kinds of routes.

A Typical Automobile Route

The typical automobile route is characterized by wide streets and roads with heavy, high-speed traffic. Most drivers take the straightest, fastest, and most important roads to travel around town and to work. While the automobile route seems to most obviously be the quickest, shortest method of getting from A to B, there are some real problems with it. That wide, fast route quickly fills up with other vehicles, there are very long wait times at traffic signals, and traffic congestion is likely. The average speed from start to finish on a busy route is usually less than 30 mph. Even when leaving the main road, motorists avoid the following routes as much as possible: narrow or winding streets and roads, streets with many right angle turns, streets with many stop signs, streets with broken pavement, streets with low speed limits, older streets which parallel the highway or interstate, and streets which lack signals at major intersections.

Roads Suitable for Cycling

The roads the motorist avoids are all prime cycling territory, but in addition, the cyclist has these additional opportunities as well: busy streets and roads which have wide outside lanes or paved shoulders, and streets that jam sufficiently to reduce motor vehicle speed.

How to Find a Bike Route for Yourself

While exploring all possible roads on a bicycle may be fun, it is also time consuming, so the first step in finding a bike route to work, routes around town, and/or routes out into the countryside for weekend excursions is to get a map of your city or town. In smaller cities and towns, a good place to find such a map is at the courthouse or city hall, where most often there is a free map with the city streets on one side and county roads on the other. In larger cities, detailed local road maps are available from any store or gas station selling road maps. Either kind of map is very useful because it will suggest routes that you otherwise wouldn't think of. That side road may go a short distance and then end, or it may be an excellent bypass of a busy part of town.

The second step, of course, is to explore the roads personally. You have to suit yourself about which roads you want to ride on. On a recent trip to Huntsville, I was advised to follow a bike route along residential streets that wound far too much for my pleasure, so I got on the main four-lane street and proceeded without difficulty towards my goal. But what if I had arrived in town during rush hour traffic, especially in the late fall, when it gets dark early? Then I would have appreciated the longer route.

Although we all have our own preferences and compromises, I notice in town after town that the streets I choose to ride on are the ones with the busiest bicycle traffic. Evidently, there is some kind of logic behind my choices that other cyclists share.

Layouts for Different Cities or Parts of Cities

I have noticed, over the years, that city street patterns fall into three types, when they can be classified at all. I will call them "small blocks," "large blocks," and "topographically determined."

A section of a city with small blocks has frequent intersections. The houses face onto the main streets with only some alleyways between the blocks. A layout like this provides many alternate routes for the cyclist, and because there are so many alternatives, few of them have a lot of traffic, even during rush hour. This is the way that downtown streets were laid out for most of the lives of our cities, and these older neighborhoods are the easiest to bicycle through. In traveling through an area of the town like this, if there is too much traffic on your block, move one block over and the traffic problem is solved.

A section of a city with large blocks has intersections half a mile, a mile, or even two miles apart. Houses do not face onto this blocks but are located on minor streets that wander around inside the hollow square. This block pattern was created to get people's houses away from automobile traffic, but it usually forces cyclists to ride on very busy roads. Hopefully, the few remaining through roads have wide shoulders, but that's not necessarily the case. Another possible route for the cyclist is to discover a route through the minor streets between the blocks which, although winding considerably, are free of high-speed traffic.

A section of a city with roads that are topographically determined has mountains, hills, valleys, streams, lakes, or an ocean which largely determine where roads can or can not be located. A road can be built up a high hill or mountain in one of four ways: 1) It can follow a stream upward. Such a road will wind around as it climbs upward and, initially, it will be much less steep than the rest of the mountainside although it might get quite steep near the end. Since the road is trapped within the valley it is following, it usually will have few intersections. 2) It can follow a ridge upward. This road will also wind a great deal and will be initially a steep route. Such a road is free to have frequent intersections. 3) It can climb along the hillside/mountainside. This kind of road will climb more gradually that the hillside, and it will have frequent switchbacks. Intersections will be limited and will often be located on the switchbacks. 4) It can run straight up the hill, no matter how steep. This kind of road is found mainly within cities and follows the rigid grid pattern, ignoring topography. Since it ignores topography, why do I include it with the roads that do? -- because a cyclist can't ignore its topography.

Bicycling Street Smarts

The most important factor in how you ride your bicycle is how you feel about it. If you find bicycling enjoyable and reasonably safe, then you'll want to cover greater distances and go more places. But to do so, you usually have to ride in the company of cars - and sharing the road with cars calls for an attitude of security and confidence.

Once you have that confidence, you can safely and enjoyably take on a commute to work in city traffic or a long day's tour on almost any kind of roads. Almost anyone can become a confident, streetwise cyclist. Start out with conditions under which you feel comfortable and work up to more difficult ones. This booklet will show you how.

Keep in mind that the rules of the road apply to all drivers of vehicles, regardless of vehicle type. But the laws themselves often describe only what a bicyclist is required to do, not how to do it. This manual describes how to do it. This manual will teach you safe bicycling on public roads and streets.

CHILDREN

To ride safely requires the ability to process information about traffic conditions, just as when driving an automobile. That skill develops with age and education. Children are not ready to ride in traffic until they have the requisite physical and cognitive skills. When a parent or guardian is satisfied that a child is ready, start out in easy conditions (on quiet neighborhood streets or rural roads) under the close supervision of someone who understands the principles of safe street bicycling taught in this manual.

EQUIPMENT CHOICES

A few words about equipment -- you do need the right equipment to put the ideas in this booklet to use.

YOUR BICYCLE

Your bicycle should match your riding style. There are many types of bicycles. Consider your level of skill and where you want to ride. A good bike shop can help you make the right decision.

For comfort, your bicycle must fit your body proportions like a good suit of clothes. Finding the right frame height by standing over the bicycle is just a start. Other measurements are equally important. For example, most women need to take extra care to buy bikes with a short top tube, since women's average upper-body length is shorter in proportion to leg length than men's.

Cranks, handlebar stem, handlebars and saddle can be changed to fit you better. A good bike shop will help you select the parts that are right for you when you buy a bike.

New or old-faithful, your bicycle must be in good working order. The gears must shift reliably, and the brakes must work smoothly. If you aren't sure that your bike is in top shape, take it to a qualified mechanic at a good bike shop.

HELMET

A helmet is a bargain in injury prevention. Wearing a bicycle helmet whenever you ride can reduce your risk of a serious head injury by 85%. A good helmet reduces the risk of a fatal bicycling crash to about the same level as a car driver's for the same amount of time spent at either activity (National Safety Council and H. Katteler; Minutes of the Velo-City Conference, Bremen, Germany, 1981). Make sure your helmet is snug, level, and covers your forehead, or you won't be adequately protected.

REAR-VIEW MIRROR

A rear-view mirror can be helpful when maneuvering in traffic. A small, helmet-mounted mirror gives a wide field of view and good isolation from road shock. Aim it along the side of your head, looking directly back. You should see your left ear in the right side of the mirror. You'll need a couple of weeks to learn to use the mirror. If it still doesn't work well for you after that length of time, consider a handlebar-end mirror instead.

BICYCLING GLOVES

Fingerless cycling gloves improve your comfort on long rides by cushioning your hands against road shock from the handlebars. They also protect your hands in case of a fall.

TOOLS

A small tool kit, tire patch kit and frame pump -- and the knowledge to use them -- will get you back on the road when your bike has a flat tire or other common minor breakdowns. Most on-road repairs are simple and easy to learn.

BAGGAGE

A frame-mounted water bottle lets you drink as you ride -- important on any trip of more than an hour. A small handlebar bag or rack-mount bag will hold your tools, extra clothing, maps and other items you take with you on your rides. A bag on the bike is a far better choice than a backpack, which will leave your back hot and sweaty in warm weather.

LOCK

Buy a good lock. Lock your bicycle's frame and any quick-release parts, or take them with you.